Guarani Humiliation

I often find myself in the same situation, sitting around in a circle with a bunch of Paraguayans, drinking terere or beer or whatever is being served at the current function, just hanging out and talking. My predicaments usually start out in the same way. I greet the group as I join it. You have to say hello to each person individually, kissing their cheeks' or shaking hands, whichever is appropriate to the situation. Here is where I have to make my first big linguistic decision, throw in a little Guarani and get it over with, or wait it out. If I am feeling up to it, I'll throw in a "Mba'e la porte" or "Mba'echapa" and watch their faces light up due to my use of their native tongue. This is inevitably followed by a reference to volunteer x who spoke "perfect" Guarani. Then they make me feel bad because I don't speak Guarani, or not nearly as well as that other volunteer does. Because of this, I usually stick to Spanish in the initial stages of the conversation.

After a minute or so of polite banter in Spanish, the conversation reverts to Guarani and I am lost. Sometimes its worth my energy to try and follow the conversation and if its something work related I usually get it, but when its social chat I just don't understand. Words are cut off and pronounced differently than their original forms. Most of the time I zone out.

Paraguayans always tell us how no one really speaks the true form of Guarani, "its Jopara' they say, its a mix of Spanish and Guarani. Really its pretty much all Guarani with some Spanish words mixed in. During these conversations where I am in my own head and not paying any attention I'll hear myself mentioned in the conversation. "Melissa doesn't talk much" or "Melissa blah, blah, blah" accompanied by a look to me "You understood that, right? Hahaha" Of course I didn't understand, I wasn't trying to. At this point the conversation then goes to volunteer x who spoke "perfect" Guarani. Bring on the humiliation. I have to choose my battles, be humiliated right from the start or sit there hoping the conversation doesn't turn to my lack of linguistic abilities.

Sometimes they don't mention me or my lack of ability. Sometimes they just sit around talking and telling jokes. Another decision must be made. Do I laugh at the jokes just because everyone else is laughing? Or do I sit there, looking confused, obviously the only person not laughing? When I laugh I risk the common questions, "Did you understand that? What did we say?" When I don't laugh I look like a sour pus. Fiddling with my phone is a culturally accepted distraction that I sometimes use to be excused from the conversation. Other times I just sit and smile, hoping that just this once it won't be too awkward.

There are also lots of situations in which the Paraguayans speak Guarani because they know I won't understand. They seem to enjoy the look of confusion on my face and they like to laugh at the Gringa who doesn't understand. This is when it hurts the most. Whether its a statement directed at me or a comment about me, its not fun to be laughed at like that.

My peace of mind comes from the knowledge that during my three years here I learned Spanish, the language that will be of use to me for the rest of my life. Learning Guarani would have helped avoid awkward social situations and humiliation, but I can use Spanish even in my own country. Plus I did learn at least of few key phrases in Guarani like my current favorites anichene, kinda like you don't say?, and ndaikuai, I don't know.

My High Class Amenities

Three years in Paraguay has changed my expectations a bit when it comes to comfort. I used to live in a nice apartment with central air and cable tv. Now I live in a two room apartment behind the house of a Paraguayan family, below two loud 19 year old med students and next to a public washing station. There are more cows and bugs in my life than I would ever have imagined. I would like to share some of what now comforts me here in Paraguay and some other stuff that just helps me get by. Even though I look forward to some of the comforts of home, I will miss this stuff!


The entrance to my home


Public Washing Station, it doesn't have running water so those who wash here pull it from the well.


The Refrigerator, it doesn't close properly so I secure it with a bungee cord.


Cooking and Storage Area


My Bed/Couch/Living Space, best purchase in Paraguay


My Sink/Washing Machine/Dishwasher


Transportation


Entertainment, although its typically drowned out my neighbor's bigger speakers.


Heating


Cooling


Homemade Shelf


Closet


Hot Water


Don't forget the pool!

Coffee without a Coffee Pot

Pretty much everyday for the past 10 years has started with a cup of coffee. When I came to Paraguay I knew that I could not give up the habit. Unfortunately here in Paraguay coffee is consumed in the instant variety. Since I only resort to consuming Nescafe in emergency situations, as in no other coffee available, I have some delicious ground coffee sent from my mother's coffee business, Java Express, regularly. Although there are coffee makers available for purchase, they don't fit into my $300 monthly budget, so this is how I prepare it. Its not quite the same as a coffee pot but the result is still a yummy cup of caffeine infused deliousness and I get to drink it out of that awesome cup.


Also I finally ordered a thermos so that I can bring my terere habit back to the states. Initially I ordered one from a woman who sells thermos in a plaza in Asuncion. She told me it would be ready within a week. I went back a week and a half later and she said it'd be done the following day, I, being pretty trusting, believed her. I went back the following week and she finally told me she never sent to have it made. So, I decided to get it done elsewhere. I placed my order at a tourist shop for leather products and was notified within three days that it was ready. The result is my beautiful new equipo below.

Salto Cristal

As you know my time here in Paraguay is winding down and the opportunities to see the treasures of Paraguay diminishing. Luckily, I have some great friends who were able to take me for a trip to a beautiful waterfall in the department of Paraguari called Salto Cristal. I had been there once before during my first month in Paraguay with my host sister, Laura, and her church youth group. That trip was great, but this trip was even better.

We planned to leave around 7:30 am starting with a trip to the grocery store to get some sandwich supplies and then to Soperia La Familia, my novio's business, to get some yummy sopa, Paraguayan corn bread, before picking up Angelic and a swedish volunteer, Emmanuel. Of course in good Paraguayan fashion, and partly my fault, we got a late start, heading out closer to 8:00.



Once everyone, all 8 of us, and everything was packed into the suburban we headed towards Villarrica. Once we were near Carlos, the Baranda family dad, advised that we would be stopping by his friend's house, I think it was to convince them to come with us. This stop turned into a terere session and it was nearly an hour later when we got back on the road. Then we were off to find our way to Salto Cristal.

We were told that there were signs that marked where we needed to turn off the road. Unfortunately the sign was tiny and was only visible coming from the opposite direction. So once we arrived at the nearby town, we turned around and asked directions a few times, eventually finding the turn-off.



We then found ourselves in the middle of a sugarcane plantation. After driving around the red dirt paths we eventually found the signs that marked the way to the waterfall.



When we arrived at the gate to the parking area we turned around to find that our friends Jonathan and Dale were in the car behind us accompanied by their lovely significant others. Crazy coincidence!

After piling out of the truck we headed down the path to the waterfall. We didn't realize that it would be a pretty steep path climbing down large rocks. But we made it and eventually got to the waterfall.







There we spread out and ate our lunch, since it was after noon, and then jumped into the water. Dale showed off his bouldering and diving skills. And eventually we all climbed onto the rock and jumped off.





After a few hours of playing around and sunning ourselves, we headed back up the path to check out the top of the falls.







Then we piled back in the car and headed back to Oviedo. The return trip was much shorter and we even got home before dark. It was a beautiful day and a great way to spend the last official day of summer.

Mission Accomplished

So I am down to a little over two months time left in the Peace Corps. One year ago I was ecstatic about staying. I didn't feel like I had accomplished what I wanted to during my time here and was looking to do more. Now, with over three years in Paraguay, I am ready to go home. I feel like I've done what I came here to do. I worked hard for two years. I taught in a high school and an elementary school and worked with the community center a few times per week. I created and maintained a weekly radio program with the help of Erin and Angelic. I had exercise groups where I worked with women to create a healthy self-image. I stayed a third year during which I helped get a $5000 grant to build a larger building for meetings and events at the community center, Gotas de Leche, and helped with the creation of a Youth Secretary position at the Town Hall, as well as the Youth Parliament to create more projects for the town's teenagers and young adults. These projects have been extremely successful. I feel like I will have left my mark on the town of Coronel Oviedo and had a positive influence on those who I have worked with.

Currently I am working with the Youth Parliament and the Youth Secretary to plan the "2do Foro Juvenil Parlamentario" in which the youth will elect their new representative. The new secretary will start work in May, I will be here to help him or her start work and give some ideas for projects for the coming year.

I hope that the experiences gained this year in planning projects and the forum will be enough for them to continue in coming years. Last year I planned the entire forum alone with the support of a small team from the town hall. This year I am leaving most of the planning to the youth, stepping in only when needed for consulting or nudging to actually get stuff done. Its weird not just doing the work, but I definitely feel like I am embracing the Peace Corps idea of creating sustainability in this way.

Because I don't have to do all the work, I end up with a lot of free time. I have recently started working out with my friend Daniela in the early evening, we are doing Jillian Michaels' 30 Day Shred workout series and riding our bikes everyday. I have been able to read more and am in the process of deciding where to go to law school. I am trying to enjoy the free time and the tranquilo atmosphere because come fall, I will be back in the world of academia.

My Brazilian Adventure Part 3

So, of course I got busy and stopped writing about my trip to Brazil. I will try to summarize the rest of it quickly.

We ended up moving to another campsite due to our disappointment with the first one and a desire to see more of the island. Because we didn't really understand the bus routes we asked what the best way to get to the next place would be. Although the campsite is pretty popular most people didn't seem to understand where we wanted to go and we ended up spending a total of 4 hours on 3 different buses to get there. Upon arrival it started to drizzle so we hung out in a pavilion and played Farkle while we waited out the rain. The campsite turned out to be the only state-owned and operated campsite in Brazil. It was much larger than our previous site and much better maintained, it was called Camping Rio Vermilho. Which means Red River Camping. We ended up staying at this site for the duration of our stay. There was a small town located about 30 minutes up the beach where we were able to buy groceries and go out to eat.

On our first day on Praia Mozambique, which is the longest beach in Florianopolis, Kristin and I decided that we'd like to try surfing. Initially we figured we might rent a board for the day or half the day and maybe even get a lesson. We checked out the first Escuela de Surf on the beach and were told that boards rent out at 20 reales or about $12 per hour. Then we saw a board sticking out of the sand with a for sale sign on it. 30 Reales! We quickly bought it. It was pretty beaten up and much too small for learning, but hey, we knew we weren't going to become experts. We just wanted to have some fun. The boys we bought it from, who were about 12 years old, waxed it up and sent us on our way. We spent the day playing in the waves, attempting to surf, but mostly just riding in on our stomachs. The next day we sold the surfboard to a group of Argentines for the same price. It was perfect!

After selling the surfboard we hiked to a nude beach, which turned out to be more of a gay nude beach. There were few women and all of them were fully clothed. We didn't spend much time there. As we crossed the path back to our beach a storm rolled in. I led the way down the path through the cold pelting rain and stepped poorly turning an ankle. The rest of the walk back to town was not pleasant. My ankle swelled quickly and has yet to heal completely.

The following day we took a trip to the northern coast to a much more crowded beach called Praia Inglesas. There the water was warmer and the people were packed like sardines onto the soft white sand. There were vendors of all types. They sold everything from cheese on a stick to jewelry. We tried some coconut covered in chocolate and churros, yum!

It rained nearly every day of the trip and the last one was no different. Luckily these rains were light and usually only lasted a few hours. We decided that in order to catch our 5 pm bus back to Paraguay we should leave around 3. We packed up the tent and all of our stuff and headed to the bus stop. By the time we arrived at the local terminal in the centro it was 5:05, we raced the 2 blocks to the long distance terminal only to find that our bus had already left. Luckily the agency was able to put us on the next bus out for minimal cost and we got to stay a little longer in Brazil.


The buses we rode in and out on.


Waterfall we hiked to on the first day.


Our hostel from the first night


Natalie and I on the path to the beach from Campsite #2


Kristin and I taking the surfboard out.


Beach Bar


Home Sweet Home


At the top on our hike to the nude beach


The Storm coming in


Praia Inglesas


Yummy steaks we cooked up


Brazilian meals are monstrous


With our surfboard

My Brazilian Adventure Part 2

Before heading to Brazil Kristin, Natalie and I decided to try and make the trip as economical as possible. Seeing as it was a relatively last minute decision, we didn't have it planned into our budgets. So we did a little research and seeing as accommodations tend to be the most expensive part of the trip we planned to camp as much as possible. Camping on the beach is illegal, but there are several campsites around the island of Florianopolis where you can pay to camp. The first night however we splurged and made reservations at a hostel in the south part of the island called Costa de Dentro. There we were able to get our bearings and more information regarding the camping options. In order to get to Costa de Dentro and the Alburgue do Pirata, Pirate's Hostel, we needed to catch a bus.

Living in Paraguay we are accustomed to taking buses to get anywhere we can't go on foot or bicycle. The buses in Paraguay are old and rusty, usually imported from some other South American country where they were used until the death, then revived for used around here. In Brazil it quite a different experience. In order to get to Costa de Dentro we needed to take two buses total.

After our arrival in Florianopolis we walked around a bit, checking out some of the shops and eating lunch at a small outdoor restaurant. Then we headed to the terminal to get the first bus headed south. Luckily we arrived just as the bus was getting ready to leave. We quickly paid for the tickets and jumped on the crowded bus, without much time to look around. The bus was crowded to the point of standing room only. Lucky for us the trip was only about 30 minutes. Loaded down with our backpacks we were obviously foreign tourists. The other passengers on the bus were nice, letting us put our bags at their feet.

When we got to the second terminal we found that there are accurate bus schedules posted, something you definitely won't see in Paraguay. The next bus we needed would leave in about 20 minutes. Also the transfers are free there, as long as you stay in the terminal. What a relief, bus trips sound cheap, but can definitely rack up quickly. We looked around the terminal and found that it included clean bathrooms and water fountains, oh how I have missed water fountains. I filled up my water bottle and pulled out my guampa and bombilla to drink some terere while we waited. As the time neared for the bus to leave a line formed, now that's definitely not something you'd see in Paraguay. People here push to get in front of each other and onto the bus. We hopped on with everyone else and headed to our hostel.

The hostel was quaint and quiet. It was also pretty full. There was a small shop down the street for groceries and the beach was just a few blocks away. The sky was overcast that day, but we still went to explore. We walked around on the beach and jumped in the water. Then headed back to the hostel. That night we made friends with some Australians, taught them how to play farkle, and we looked for camping nearby. We were told there is camping in Armacao, a beach we passed on the way down. We decided to head there the next day.

In the morning we started the day with a hike to a nearby waterfall where the water was cool and clean. It was beautiful. Then we packed up our stuff and went in search of the campsite. We waited for the bus across the street from the hostel and when the bus came, stuck our arms out, signaling that we wanted to get on. The bus blew by. What?! We were puzzled by this. Why didn't it stop? Then we looked around and noticed a bus stop sign about 50 meters away. So in this country you actually have to be at a bus stop for it to stop, sounds logical, I guess. We walked to the next stop and waited for about an hour for the next bus to come by. This time we were successful in boarding.

The bus let us off in Armacao and we asked around to find the campsite. It turns out the campsite was merely a patch of grass on an empty lot. There were some bathrooms and pavilions with kitchens, but the tents were packed in, with little personal space. But it did have access to the beach and was just a quick walk from the town. We immediately decided to stay only one night. We set up the tent, locking our stuff inside and headed out to do more exploring. We ate an enormous Brazilian lunch of pan-fried fish, rice and beans, fries, salad and a Caipirinha strong enough to intoxicate after only a few sips.

After stuffing ourselves with food we went to check out a hike we saw on the map, rumored to be about an hour long and leading to a private beach. After walking along the beach, this one more crowded than the first one we'd seen, we found the path and started along it. After going off on the wrong trail a few times we found the right one, but by then the sun was starting to set. We ran into a couple returning from the other side. They indicated that the last boat that returns from the beach had already left and that we should turn around because we probably wouldn't make it back before dark. We continued on for a few more minutes, then turned around. We played on the beach awhile and were amazed by how many people were there drinking mate, the hot version of terere. It turns out most of the tourists in Florianopolis are Argentinian and Uruguayan and they drink as much mate as the Paraguayans do terere, even on the beach. After returning to the campsite we made some guacamole and caipirinhas for dinner and headed out to the beach to enjoy its proximity. We climbed up into a lifeguard station and watched as the other tourists went about their business. Some walking on the beach and others getting more intimate. It was a great first few days in Florianopolis.