Guarani Humiliation

I often find myself in the same situation, sitting around in a circle with a bunch of Paraguayans, drinking terere or beer or whatever is being served at the current function, just hanging out and talking. My predicaments usually start out in the same way. I greet the group as I join it. You have to say hello to each person individually, kissing their cheeks' or shaking hands, whichever is appropriate to the situation. Here is where I have to make my first big linguistic decision, throw in a little Guarani and get it over with, or wait it out. If I am feeling up to it, I'll throw in a "Mba'e la porte" or "Mba'echapa" and watch their faces light up due to my use of their native tongue. This is inevitably followed by a reference to volunteer x who spoke "perfect" Guarani. Then they make me feel bad because I don't speak Guarani, or not nearly as well as that other volunteer does. Because of this, I usually stick to Spanish in the initial stages of the conversation.

After a minute or so of polite banter in Spanish, the conversation reverts to Guarani and I am lost. Sometimes its worth my energy to try and follow the conversation and if its something work related I usually get it, but when its social chat I just don't understand. Words are cut off and pronounced differently than their original forms. Most of the time I zone out.

Paraguayans always tell us how no one really speaks the true form of Guarani, "its Jopara' they say, its a mix of Spanish and Guarani. Really its pretty much all Guarani with some Spanish words mixed in. During these conversations where I am in my own head and not paying any attention I'll hear myself mentioned in the conversation. "Melissa doesn't talk much" or "Melissa blah, blah, blah" accompanied by a look to me "You understood that, right? Hahaha" Of course I didn't understand, I wasn't trying to. At this point the conversation then goes to volunteer x who spoke "perfect" Guarani. Bring on the humiliation. I have to choose my battles, be humiliated right from the start or sit there hoping the conversation doesn't turn to my lack of linguistic abilities.

Sometimes they don't mention me or my lack of ability. Sometimes they just sit around talking and telling jokes. Another decision must be made. Do I laugh at the jokes just because everyone else is laughing? Or do I sit there, looking confused, obviously the only person not laughing? When I laugh I risk the common questions, "Did you understand that? What did we say?" When I don't laugh I look like a sour pus. Fiddling with my phone is a culturally accepted distraction that I sometimes use to be excused from the conversation. Other times I just sit and smile, hoping that just this once it won't be too awkward.

There are also lots of situations in which the Paraguayans speak Guarani because they know I won't understand. They seem to enjoy the look of confusion on my face and they like to laugh at the Gringa who doesn't understand. This is when it hurts the most. Whether its a statement directed at me or a comment about me, its not fun to be laughed at like that.

My peace of mind comes from the knowledge that during my three years here I learned Spanish, the language that will be of use to me for the rest of my life. Learning Guarani would have helped avoid awkward social situations and humiliation, but I can use Spanish even in my own country. Plus I did learn at least of few key phrases in Guarani like my current favorites anichene, kinda like you don't say?, and ndaikuai, I don't know.

My High Class Amenities

Three years in Paraguay has changed my expectations a bit when it comes to comfort. I used to live in a nice apartment with central air and cable tv. Now I live in a two room apartment behind the house of a Paraguayan family, below two loud 19 year old med students and next to a public washing station. There are more cows and bugs in my life than I would ever have imagined. I would like to share some of what now comforts me here in Paraguay and some other stuff that just helps me get by. Even though I look forward to some of the comforts of home, I will miss this stuff!


The entrance to my home


Public Washing Station, it doesn't have running water so those who wash here pull it from the well.


The Refrigerator, it doesn't close properly so I secure it with a bungee cord.


Cooking and Storage Area


My Bed/Couch/Living Space, best purchase in Paraguay


My Sink/Washing Machine/Dishwasher


Transportation


Entertainment, although its typically drowned out my neighbor's bigger speakers.


Heating


Cooling


Homemade Shelf


Closet


Hot Water


Don't forget the pool!

Coffee without a Coffee Pot

Pretty much everyday for the past 10 years has started with a cup of coffee. When I came to Paraguay I knew that I could not give up the habit. Unfortunately here in Paraguay coffee is consumed in the instant variety. Since I only resort to consuming Nescafe in emergency situations, as in no other coffee available, I have some delicious ground coffee sent from my mother's coffee business, Java Express, regularly. Although there are coffee makers available for purchase, they don't fit into my $300 monthly budget, so this is how I prepare it. Its not quite the same as a coffee pot but the result is still a yummy cup of caffeine infused deliousness and I get to drink it out of that awesome cup.


Also I finally ordered a thermos so that I can bring my terere habit back to the states. Initially I ordered one from a woman who sells thermos in a plaza in Asuncion. She told me it would be ready within a week. I went back a week and a half later and she said it'd be done the following day, I, being pretty trusting, believed her. I went back the following week and she finally told me she never sent to have it made. So, I decided to get it done elsewhere. I placed my order at a tourist shop for leather products and was notified within three days that it was ready. The result is my beautiful new equipo below.

Salto Cristal

As you know my time here in Paraguay is winding down and the opportunities to see the treasures of Paraguay diminishing. Luckily, I have some great friends who were able to take me for a trip to a beautiful waterfall in the department of Paraguari called Salto Cristal. I had been there once before during my first month in Paraguay with my host sister, Laura, and her church youth group. That trip was great, but this trip was even better.

We planned to leave around 7:30 am starting with a trip to the grocery store to get some sandwich supplies and then to Soperia La Familia, my novio's business, to get some yummy sopa, Paraguayan corn bread, before picking up Angelic and a swedish volunteer, Emmanuel. Of course in good Paraguayan fashion, and partly my fault, we got a late start, heading out closer to 8:00.



Once everyone, all 8 of us, and everything was packed into the suburban we headed towards Villarrica. Once we were near Carlos, the Baranda family dad, advised that we would be stopping by his friend's house, I think it was to convince them to come with us. This stop turned into a terere session and it was nearly an hour later when we got back on the road. Then we were off to find our way to Salto Cristal.

We were told that there were signs that marked where we needed to turn off the road. Unfortunately the sign was tiny and was only visible coming from the opposite direction. So once we arrived at the nearby town, we turned around and asked directions a few times, eventually finding the turn-off.



We then found ourselves in the middle of a sugarcane plantation. After driving around the red dirt paths we eventually found the signs that marked the way to the waterfall.



When we arrived at the gate to the parking area we turned around to find that our friends Jonathan and Dale were in the car behind us accompanied by their lovely significant others. Crazy coincidence!

After piling out of the truck we headed down the path to the waterfall. We didn't realize that it would be a pretty steep path climbing down large rocks. But we made it and eventually got to the waterfall.







There we spread out and ate our lunch, since it was after noon, and then jumped into the water. Dale showed off his bouldering and diving skills. And eventually we all climbed onto the rock and jumped off.





After a few hours of playing around and sunning ourselves, we headed back up the path to check out the top of the falls.







Then we piled back in the car and headed back to Oviedo. The return trip was much shorter and we even got home before dark. It was a beautiful day and a great way to spend the last official day of summer.

Mission Accomplished

So I am down to a little over two months time left in the Peace Corps. One year ago I was ecstatic about staying. I didn't feel like I had accomplished what I wanted to during my time here and was looking to do more. Now, with over three years in Paraguay, I am ready to go home. I feel like I've done what I came here to do. I worked hard for two years. I taught in a high school and an elementary school and worked with the community center a few times per week. I created and maintained a weekly radio program with the help of Erin and Angelic. I had exercise groups where I worked with women to create a healthy self-image. I stayed a third year during which I helped get a $5000 grant to build a larger building for meetings and events at the community center, Gotas de Leche, and helped with the creation of a Youth Secretary position at the Town Hall, as well as the Youth Parliament to create more projects for the town's teenagers and young adults. These projects have been extremely successful. I feel like I will have left my mark on the town of Coronel Oviedo and had a positive influence on those who I have worked with.

Currently I am working with the Youth Parliament and the Youth Secretary to plan the "2do Foro Juvenil Parlamentario" in which the youth will elect their new representative. The new secretary will start work in May, I will be here to help him or her start work and give some ideas for projects for the coming year.

I hope that the experiences gained this year in planning projects and the forum will be enough for them to continue in coming years. Last year I planned the entire forum alone with the support of a small team from the town hall. This year I am leaving most of the planning to the youth, stepping in only when needed for consulting or nudging to actually get stuff done. Its weird not just doing the work, but I definitely feel like I am embracing the Peace Corps idea of creating sustainability in this way.

Because I don't have to do all the work, I end up with a lot of free time. I have recently started working out with my friend Daniela in the early evening, we are doing Jillian Michaels' 30 Day Shred workout series and riding our bikes everyday. I have been able to read more and am in the process of deciding where to go to law school. I am trying to enjoy the free time and the tranquilo atmosphere because come fall, I will be back in the world of academia.